I’m sunburnt, I can barely lift my arms, I just ate half a kilo of pasta, I’m very very very tired and happy as. There is nothing better than the feeling of being absolutely surfed out after a wicked surf session or five.
I just got back from one of the best surf weekends in a long time. Hardly ever the stars align as well as they did this weekend. The surf forecast was looking good, the weather forecast was looking good, house down south was booked weeks ago. Not even the drive (which is usually a nightmare on a Friday after work) was too bad.
Saturday, everyone was up at 7 in anticipation of great surf and we were not disappointed. With a view to Green Island from our house we could already see the clean lines of swell rolling in. What we could not see from our house were the crowds. It was a bit of downer when we rocked up at a very, very busy carpark. Either way, we decided to give it a go anyway. It could have been a bit bigger but hey who am I to complain about 3-4ft glassy lefthanders off a point. We all had a ball for hours. That was only the first awesome session. We are so happy already. Usually you are lucky if you get one great session in on a weekend.
After a pit stop, as in stuffing our faces with bacon and eggs, we decided to give another beach a go. It looked fantastic. 4-5ft A-frames rolling in and not too many people. It was pretty hectic in the end. The peaks were shifty and strong currents with lots of water moving made this session a paddle feast. It was truly hard work especially after having surfed for 21/2 already in the morning. Either way, caught I guess the best wave of the trip, big and fast, which made up for the pain in the butt paddle.
Next surf, after a little powernap, was the avo session off the point again. The loooong paddle out the point was pretty painful by then. Surf dropped a bit but once again an awesome session for everyone.
In the eve we cooked up a storm – well we bbqed up a storm. We’ve enjoyed an awesome dinner not only because of great food but thanks to super chilled and happy surfed-out crew at our little holiday house. Have not laughed so much in a long time…
Ok day 2 of the surftrip, I wake up a bit cranky, I was so tired but wired at the same time I could not sleep well. Nevertheless, excited about next surf. The point looked much smaller than the day before so we decided to head back to the same beach like we surfed at lunchtime yesterday. Smaller than the day before but still a good 3ft, glassy and awesome banks. It was so good that we surfed for more than 3 hours. I could barely take off my wetsuit. That’s how exhausted I was by then.
Back at the house, more food, everyone’s half asleep but we have to check-out. We leave just after lunchtime and we thought maybe we check the farm on the way back. I did not really think any of us would be able to surf anymore but just check while we are on the way anyway. And, guess what… the Farm looked like fun. It was super glassy and 2-3ft. So we really went for another surf and had yet another awesome session. So stoked.
All in all, I think I surfed about 10 hours in 2 days. Can’t even remember the last time I managed to get that much surf in. That reminds me of the days of endless surf back in Indo… That reminds how much I would so much rather board a plane to Indo than going to work tomorrow… Keep on dreaming…
Heard the surf here was ok too. I guess it would have been a bit crowded though considering killer weather all weekend. Anyway, looks like there are going to be waves all week at least small ones. Got my surf mojo back can’t wait for the next surf. If I can lift my arms tomorrow morning that is…