Ok try to think of the following: every morning you wake up, you get up to check the surf from the balcony. Every morning you see a perfect sunrise with perfect waves.
That’s what it’s like here. I’ve been in Sri Lanka now for a bit more than a week and the surf has been super consistent. One might think you get bored after a while but no way. It’s kind of the same but still different every morning. Sometimes it’s a foot bigger, sometimes a foot smaller. Yesterday was probably biggest with some bombs coming through. A few double-overhead. I had a few more decent stacks but only fairly gentle encounters with the reef and a few scratches on my toes. I’m still working on the barrel bit.
A Kiwi on a longboard got barreled for at least 5 seconds the other day. Jealous. He was ripping on the mal. You hardly ever see such good longboarders on reefbreaks. I have not anyway. In general, the people in the line up are fun and interesting to watch…like the crazy Yoga teacher. He’s usually the first one out closely followed by me. He surfs like he’s doing Tai Chi on the surfboard. Funniest style I’ve ever seen.
Although there are a few locals, it’s quite a transient crowd in general and you meet new people every day. I even met an Austrian dude in the surf. Very funny. In true Austrian style he was fully equipped with camera, helmet, booties but could not stop whinging about the crowds. There are a lot of Brazilians, who in true Brazilian style paddle straight back to the inside every time, some Italians, quite a few French and of course Aussies. I have to say Aussies and Kiwis are still by far the most open and friendliest people in and outside of the water (apart from the locals). Whilst most surfers (and other tourists for that matter) barely manage to say hi, you always get a nice ‘hi how are you going’ from the Aussies and the Kiwis. Living in Oz made me almost take this for granted and forget how lovely Aussie peeps are compared to others. They are generally the best surfers too here.
Oh and I almost forgot about the Russians. Sri Lanka is full of them. Most of them don’t surf but they love posing with surfboards and take photos. We’ve seen them borrow surfboards from the hostels, run around on the beach and pose for photos with boards and returning them without even having put a toe in the water. Hilarious to watch. To be fair some of them do try to surf but forget to wear their boardies which makes for good photo opps….
Ok, must go and find some Roti for lunch. Have a good one, hope you get some good surf back in Oz too, we are supposed to get a massive swell in on Monday, Tuesday with 19 sec period. Could be scary-meet-reef-eat-sand material. Wish me luck.
If I manage to peel myself away from under the palm tree in my surf break, I’ll give you another update from paradise soon.