Yay Sydney weekend wave wraps are back after my stint in Sri Lanka. No more stories about perfect reef breaks in front of my guesthouse… But I can’t really complain, can I? I’ve got the famous Bondi beach on my doorstep and did not have to return to – 25 degree cold Europe like my travel buddy (yes, that’s a minus in front of the 25).
Well, I did complain anyway – as you always do when you just come back from a country that’s blessed with lots of reefs and consistent waves. How bad is that first surf at your local – especially if your local is the most crowded beach on the whole planet. After surfing perfect waves, I found myself in 1-2f onshore dribbles. Also, did I discover that 19 degrees water temperature is quite cold compared to 28 and better suited to a steamer than a bikini. I think I got hypothermia after 20 min. And then the crowds, I almost forgot about the crowds. I thought 10 people was busy in Hikkaduwa but 10 people in Bondi is considered an empty line up.
By the time the weekend came around, Sri Lanka was only a distant memory and so were great surf conditions. But then a glimmer of hope… The Friday after work surf turned out to be fun. About 2ft + in the South Corner. The wind has turned offshore and there was actually a proper right with a real wall. Wow. I was impressed. I’ve been very naughty though. I did the worst ever. I paddled for a wave, a girl paddled next to me, she was on the inside on a softie. I was thinking surely she can’t surf anyway and thought she would go straight. I did not even look behind me after I took off. Beautiful wave and suddenly I could feel the softie on my ankles. The girl was ripping on the softie and right behind me. She was really cool and nice about it. But jeez I was so embarrassed that I dropped in on a fellow gidget. I HATE HATE HATE it when guys do that and drop in on me because they think I’m a girl who won’t make it across anyway and then I’m the worst culprit myself. Oopsie Daisy.
On Saturday I had a couple of fun surfs. A few foot again, too crowded again. Back in the swing of things at home though I got quickly used to having to maneuver myself to the line-up by ditching flying mal though.
Sunday morning, we headed down to Cronulla and it was peeeeerfect. 4 foot, offshore and really nice banks. Unfortunately, I had to go down to the kiddie’s corner where it was only about 2 foot as I promised one of my mates to give her a surf lesson. It was still fun and just such a gorgeous day. How nice was it after all that rain? I’ve laid low in the afternoon and did not go anywhere close to the beach. There were people everywhere trying to soak up that little bit of yellow light that’s been hiding for such a long time. And then, then I went for an awesome surf. I got in at about 6.30, 3ft with that right still working. At first it was still freaking busy. By 7.30 most of the crowd has dissipated and oh my god, I had by far the best surf since I’ve been back. I had so many awesome rights. I reckon I almost got a mini barrel once too. I was absolutely stoked. I stayed till late late. It was quite funny, there were only 10 of us left and we are all huddled together in one tiny spot as it started to get really dark. No one was keen to turn into a sea biscuit I guess. I had one last fun wave in at about 8.30. What a great session. Bloody tired now, can’t wait for the morning surf though, should be good too.
Maybe not so be bad to be back home after all.