So I went down South for an early surf. I love those autumn days when the sun’s out. The water is still warm but the pesky onshore winds stay away all day and swell has that little bit of extra bite. Even though I felt under the weather myself due to a nasty cold, I could not resist and jumped in nevertheless. Such a fun wave, even though it was a bit shallow with rocks sticking out where we surfed. Some grommies were playing around too. They kept on dropping in on each other and pushing each other off the waves until one of them got hurt. I presume he hit his head on one of these rocks coming out way too far. Oh well, that happens when you drop in…
Either way, the surf in the morning was so worth it, even though I had to pay for it in the afternoon. Despite it being a gorgeous day, I had to spend the rest of it in bed feeling sorry for myself when the flu took over.
A good sleep (pretty much 16 hours) did wonders though and (almost) made me feel my normal self again. Normal enough anyway to head to Maroubra for a surf. We tried the South end first which was …well…3ft but mean 3ft. It was out closing out quite a bit but then I did see quite a few barrels too. I thought the bank was just mean and pulled out of most waves before going over the falls and crashing on the shallow bank. I figured they were board breakers. We decided to give the North End a shot. And, yes it was crowded, but it was also damn good. 3-4ft walling up for quite a while. I had some fun waves even though I had to ‘share ‘ a few….
Surf stayed good all day. Bondi was glassy all afternoon. I waited until the crowds left and went for a late one. Again, heaps of fun. 2-3ft and a fun right off South walling up all the way to the middle. Yay. I stayed until after dark. Gutted day light savings is over. It’s going to be dark by the time I get out of work. Bye bye after work surfs. At least it’s light early again which means longer surfs before work.
All week should be good. The current East swell is meant to be building further. I guess we’ll see some decent size waves in Tama, Bronte and Maroubra but even South Bondi should be fine. Let’s only hope it’s stays that way into the long Easter weekend.