What a surf weekend – one swell seamlessly backing up another combined with no or offshore winds all weekend. Oh and Sunday even the sun came out for a change. That’s how we like it.
I did not think Bondi would be handling the swell, so we made plans to go down South. Bright and early I caught up with fellow gidget Anna in the carpark in Bondi to drive down. And Bondi looked actually pretty good (as good as it rarely does). We briefly considered to stay in Bondi but then convinced ourselves that it would be even better down South.
11/2 hours later, we arrived at the spot of our choice and waves were about 5ft (double the size of Bondi) and closing out. Nooooo. Oh I can’t tell how annoying it is if your local is firing and you end up driving for 11/2 hours to face worse conditions. Sucks balls. Oh well, we decided to check another spot and went to Stanwell. Still closing out a bit but not as much as the previous one. There were some serious bombs coming through including proper big, fast, scary barrels. Not that I made any of them. I had some good wipe-outs though. Anna managed to drop in on her mate who was deep in the barrel. She actually dropped in on his head. Lucky, the damage was only a ding in her board, could have been much worse. We did no last too long either. It was freezing cold and raining a lot. I knew it was time to get out of the water when I could not feel my toes anymore and looked a tad too blue…
I could not believe my luck when I heard that Anna’s mates (including the one she almost killed when dropping in) are sitting a house opposite Stanwell beach which happened to have an outdoor spa (I’m not making this up). So we went straight from the surf into the spa. Four gidgets sitting in the spa for 2 hours – warming up toes, gossiping and listening to Lisa’s freaky shark stories (circled by a shark in Tallows – WTF!!!). My toes returned to normal color too after the spa session. Excellent. Maybe leaving Bondi for the day was not so bad after all.
By the time I got back, Bondi looked alright and highly surfable still. So I jumped in for another one which I kind of regretted. It was really rippy and getting bigger and closing out.
Sunday morning was very exciting. I woke up early again and was delighted when I discovered the sun coming up, yes the sun, really the sun, no rain, not even clouds….And the new swell has truly kicked in too. Bondi was just one big close-out. I thought I would give Maroubra a try instead and that’s the really exciting part….perfect waves. Decent size but much more gentle than the Stanwell bombs. Despite the crowds, I caught heaps of waves. Yay.
The week ahead looks fantastic. 3-4ft every day with light offshore or no wind at all. Better cancel any early morning meetings this week.