This weekend’s wave wrap is a special one. It’s being typed in a dodgy internet café in Legian. My mate (let’s call him Tin Tin) and I made it safely to Bali on Friday night. It’s so nice to be back. Only two days and already so many surfstories including sunburn.
We figured it’s probably not the smartest thing to head straight to the reef on the first day. So Saturday, we started off with Canggu as a bit of a warm up wave. Canggu was fun 3-4ft. Unfortunately, the wind was in a bit and it was not as glassy as you would see at the reef at the Bukit. I guess at least it kept the crowds away. However, it did not keep the big fish away. Never seen a shark ever in Bali but Tin Tin and I are pretty sure that big thing that popped up at arm’s length from us could have been one. Oh well, it eventually swam away again.
Today, we thought we would be even smarter and in order to escape the crowds, we got up super early to get a surf in on the west coast in Serangan before the trade winds kick in. Our driver did not end up getting up so early I assume. He did not rock up. We had to get another one and by the time we made it to Serangan, it was blown out. Shame, because there was only a couple of surfers out there and I’m sure it would have been really good an hour earlier. We paddled out anyway and again we were greeted by local sea life. Whilst I’m convinced it was just a reeeeeeeally big turtle with a triangle shape head, Tin Tin reckons a shark is stalking us. Considering, it was not so great there anyway and we were not sure if we wanted to play with the Turtle, we’ve headed back to shore fairly within the hour.
Next stop Uluwatu (yes, Jules, you would be proud of me… Ulus). It was again 3-4ft and we surfed picture perfect waves groomed by offshore winds you see in the mags. I had an absolute ball. It was not even crowded. I think most people considered it too ‘small’ I’ve got a few times almost barreled and only once I got stuck on shallow reef on the inside. A big wave was breaking in front of me and I was standing in knee deep water. There was only one way to go…throw the board away and lie flat on the reef. It worked. I made it back to the shore in one piece. So did Tin Tin. Well, almost, he had a few scratches. Nothing major.Oh and courtesy of the photographer dudes there, I’ve got some piccies too. See header and below.
We are back in Legian now and no more surf today. Our boards were picked up for G-Land already. We’ve got an early start tomorrow to get to the speedboat to take us over to Java. I can’t wait to go there. It’s going to be amazing. Stay tuned, next wave wrap from Java.