How exciting… Summer’s here. Yet another amazing weekend. And still some swell left. After a week of fun 2-3ft waves, the swell did run out of steam a bit on the weekend. For once, I did not mind. I can’t even remember the last day I did not surf. Throughout the week, every morning before work I would have spent up to two hours in the water. On Friday I was especially stoked. I’ve decided to try the famous left in South Bondi which I’ve avoided until then. It used to be just too busy and every man and his dog who could surf tried to get a bit of the barreling left. Friday though it looked like the famous left was on it’s very last legs so it was a matter of now or never. Even though it was only a couple of foot, I took out ‘THE BEAST’ (my pin tail Bali barrel board). And what a great team we are ‘THE BEAST’ and I….despite crowds and a highly annoying rip, we managed to catch a barrel!!!! Yes a barrel. Me and the beast. I was not even 100% sure if I was properly in like really in because it was so fast but I had a barrel witness (thanks Rob) who could only confirm the glorious moment. Unfortunately, he also witnessed a few not so glorious drop-ins. Ooopsies. Sorry Glenn. Apparently, it was you and according to my witness it was a pretty bad drop in. I swear I have not seen you.
Saturday morning was still ok but I think I was truly out-surfed. I only went for a quick one to wake up really which was an easy task in 17 degree water. So cold. Sunday, the swell dropped further and by the time I got into the water the wind was in. On a mal it may have been fun. I took the fish out and it was small, blown-out and just not great but hey who am I to complain after an amazing run. Thanks Huey, it’s been awesome.
It looks like we are in for a few more days of swell. Fingers crossed the great weather and waves are hanging around for the long weekend.