A couple of days ago, it was one of these crazy mornings. Fairly small waves but pretty good banks…the water was warm with about 23 degrees and there was no cloud in the sky. Picture perfect and best conditions for a little relaxing morning surf… a relaxing morning surf with fifty other people on one bank…When I first paddled out, I was thinking what the f…? Can everyone go home please? I contemplated to just catch one wave and to paddle straight back in. I have to admit I’m not a morning person either so that generally does not contribute to my overall mood.
That particular morning though, it was really hard though to stay a grumpy bum. It was just such a beautiful day and many familiar faces and friends were out that morning in the line-up. It was so ridiculously busy that we actually ended up having a good laugh and many party waves (voluntary ones and involuntary ones). Even though it was not the bestest of surfs in terms of waves, I walked home with a smile on my face.
It made me realise once more how lucky I am. It also reminded me, to focus on the good things. I could have been grumpy all morning due to the crowd but instead I just accepted that it was busy and made the best out of it by dropping in on my friends…that was a joke (a bit) …what I wanted to say I had a ball with my mates. And it made me very grateful that I’m able to live close to the ocean and getting into the water every morning.
I’ve actually got this thing…every night before I fall asleep I think of the things I’m grateful for. I swear it makes you a happier person and helps keeping a positive attitude towards life in general (try it, it works). On top of my thank you list most days is surfing so I thought, what are the things I’m particular grateful and would like to thank the ocean for…
Thank you surf for the waves you are making and being extremely creative about them (never seen any that look the same); for making me get up every morning; for the joy and fun I’m having out there; for giving me a good work out for free and keeping me fit; for all the ice cream and Schnitzel I can eat because of you; for taking me to places I would have never discovered without you; for being an awesome teacher in many ways; for giving me access to a different world; for contributing immensely to my overall happiness (I bet the people around me thank you too for that one); for every time I got to surf with dolphins; actually for every moment I get to spend out there; for every wave I ever caught; for the wipe-outs. Yes, those too. I reckon surfing would be only half as much fun.
And last not but least I’m very, very grateful for the people I’ve met and the friends I’ve made through you. Thank you.
So next time you are a grumpy bum in the line-up or have a grumble about the crowds (ok small grumbles are allowed), try to remember all the good things the ocean and the waves have brought to you too. It makes for a better vibe in the line-up for sure and everyone’s in a better mood…go figure what’s better…a grumpy crowd or a happy crowd…
surfosopher and gidget