About you in a few words: I grew up far away from any ocean, but was lucky enough to have sunseeker parents who made me spent most of my holidays as a teenager exploring beaches in the Mediterranean, Atlantic coast, North and East Africa, East and West Coast America.
My first go on a surfboard was in San Sebastian (Spain) 12 years ago, and it almost killed me. I popped up on the inside of my board and a wave smashed the board into my throat. I couldn’t speak, scream or breathe for what seemed like eternity. All I could do was try to relish the last moments of my life while suffocating in the sea.
With utter respect but grand fascination for the ocean, I landed in Bondi a year later, where I decided to face my fears and finally live my passion for surfing. It is a hard skill to master, but patience and persistence eventually turned surfing into the love of my life.
I too wish I had had the chance to be a grom surfer, but am grateful to be able to drink a cup of the ocean every morning for the rest of my life.
Local break: Manly, South Steyne.
What I love about surfing: Two things: One is the humbling experiences I have had in the surf have taught me more about myself and life than any school teacher could ever have.
Two is the magical power to clear your head, let go of what bothers you and forgive who treated you unfairly. Any relationship counseling should start in the water ;-)
What I hate about surfing: Hmmmm, that I can’t do it all the time?
Favourite surfspot in Oz: Manly, Curly, One Mile Beach, Treachery, Snapper.
Favourite surfspot overseas: Balangan and Balian (Bali) and Yin Yangs (Maldives).
Favourite surfboard: A copy of my mate’s 6’4 yellow MG board.
Favourite surfer: My friends, they are fun, fearless and fabulous fruitcakes.
Favourite surf movie: Step Into Liquid, first surf movie I watched and really got me pumped. Also love Last Paradise, makes you realise how connected we used to be to nature, and how we need to give back to remain a part of this planet.
What I do in real life: I organise yoga retreats in Uluwatu, Bali. Yes I am living the dream, and I aim to inspire others to do so. Come join me for the next one on 30 July to 3 August! Check my website at www.luxuryretreatsbali.com.au