Meet Great Gidget Kris. This wonderful lady is living proof that it’s never too late to start surfing. She’s started surfing in her 40ies and she rips!
We had the pleasure to hang out with Kris when she came to our Surf&Yoga Escape a few weeks ago. It fills me with absolute joy to meet people like her. A confident woman, mother of five with a passion for surfing (and life) – the story of a Venus Gone Gidget… A must-read interview.
Your name:
Kris Adam-Smith
About you in a few words and how you got to surfing:
I’m an over 45 yr old mother of 2 and stepmother of 3 who works in banking & finance – would you believe I was never a water person but I got into surfing just over 4 years ago to impress a man who I’m now married to! Something flipped in my head the first time I waded out with a 9’ of fibreglass strapped to my leg, and when I emerged that first Sunday at Freshwater battered, bruised and bleeding I somehow knew I’d found something which was going to change the way I look at life, how I learn to cope with the unexpected, value natural beauty and greatly improve the condition and tone of my upper body!
Local break:
North Steyne, Manly – but Freshwater has a special place in my soul.
What I love about surfing:
When you’re out there, your mind is focussed on the swell and the next wave only – total release. I love seeing the occasional dolphin, and I love surfing with my amazing husband and fabulous kids, particularly early in the morning when the beach is a special place. I also love that connection when you meet another surfer, the shared knowledge of how special it can be to catch a wave, and the fact that it requires patience, commitment and a balanced attitude.
What I hate about surfing:
It hurts, a lot sometimes – I have had some spectacular injuries. Some days you’re invincible and the next day you can’t catch a single wave – and now surfing is part of my way of life, I get jumpy if I haven’t been in the water for a couple of weeks!
What advice would you give to ladies starting out on their surf journey:
Set your own goals and go at your own pace. You do need to get out of your comfort zone – if surfing was easy, everyone would do it! But whilst you need to commit to paddle for a wave and catch it, be kind to yourself and recognise when the conditions won’t suit you – I rarely go out these days if the swell is over 3’, I just don’t enjoy it. Finally, wax your board well, and keep your Eyes Up – this is so important I got it tattooed on my foot in Bali!
Favourite surfspot in Oz:
North Steyne and Freshwater in Sydney – Wategos in Byron Bay (got married there last year!)
Favourite surfspot overseas:
I’ve only surfed in Bali overseas, so I’d have to say Ccangu in Bali where I conquered my fears (encouraged greatly by the local surf guide) and caught a couple of really big scary waves.
Favourite surfboard:
My first proper board was a second hand McTavish 8’6” Eightball which still has a special place in my heart! But currently my favourites are a 9’ Walden Magic Model which is super cruisy and a bright pink 8’ Modern Blackbird which can be seen from space and is heaps of fun – I doubt I will EVER surf on anything shorter than 7’!!!
Favourite surfer:
I have 2 – Bethany Hamilton, I don’t know how anyone does what she does. Layne Beachley, for her achievements, as a role model and her contribution to helping people realise their dreams through Reach for the Stars.
Favourite surf movie:
For different reasons: Storm Riders (those guys are total freaks) and Point Break for some great quotes relevant to surfing and life: “Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation makes your worst dreams come true”.
What you do when you are not surfing:
Eat, drink, party, and work hard to pay for my next surfboard or surf trip!! Occasionally I write a blog on topics I find interesting at www.eyesuptoday.com.
Thanks Kris!!
Photos: Small beach break at Legian, Bali; Looking terrified at Cangu, Bali; Fluro Friday at North Steyne, Manly – OneWaveIsAllItTakes rocking SaltGypsy leggings
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