You can eat shit loads of ice cream without getting fat:
Monday, after a massive dinner I did not shy away from dessert. Surfing just takes a lot of energy which you simply need to get back somehow. So I did not have to feel bad at all when I ate half a liter (i.e. a lot) of chocolate ice cream. If you love food like I do, you are truly blessed with that surfing extra. It makes the impossible possible: eat as much as you want without getting fat.
You get to see the sunrise even if you are not a morning person:
Tuesday was a tough one to start with. You have to understand I’m not a morning person. I only get up early to surf. So it’s an inner struggle every day between the inner grumpy shit who wants to sleep in and the inner gidget who’s frothing for a wave. Anyway, I’ve dragged my tired bum out of bed when it was pitch black to make it for a surf to Maroubra before work. By the time we arrived in Maroubra, we were greeted by the most amazing sunrise. The whole sky was covered in orange morning cloud. Just beautiful. Sunrise – something, I did not even know existed, before I started surfing.
You get to have fun when it’s raining (which is not to be underestimated in a summer like we had):
Well, if I thought Tuesday was a tough morning to get up, I was wrong. Wednesday morning was really shit. The alarm was set for 5.45 for yet another early morning session. I woke up to wind and rain. Eeeek. A perfect day to sleep in. My friend who was giving me a lift did not think so and was keen to get a wave in. So I really could not bail. And thank god, I did not. Waves in Maroubra were small but fun. It was pissing down at times. And I loved it. The good thing is when you surf you don’t care, you are already wet and get to be outside even when it rains. By the time I got to work I felt all energised despite a yucky rainy day I was in an excellent mood amongst a lot of peeps whinging about the shitty weather.
These are just some of the surfing extras I got to benefit from this week and it’s only Wednesday. It goes without saying surfing makes you feel great every time (ok most times). Think of it next time you struggle rolling yourself out of bed and into the waves J