The surf this weekend was all over the place and so was the weather. Friday was super hot with small waves. Saturday and Sunday we had some swell but also again lots of wind and the weather was a bit on the cloudy side. You could definitely surf and catch a few but as I said it was all over the place and a bit random.
With random surf came random surfing thoughts. You always learn something when you are out there, so here are things I’ve discovered this weekend:
It’s about the shape and not the size, Claudia…I’ve been reminded by one of my surfie friends when I complained about the size of the waves. True that …when it comes to waves… Having said that, I did not see much shape nor size this weekend.
Don’t eat a block of chocolate before you go for a surf… True too…it gives you heartburn. I’ve tried it today. I can not recommend it.
The ‘shit wave’ threshold correlates negatively to the number of surfing years. I used to stay out there for ages no matter how bad it would be and I would always, ALWAYS, surf the last wave in. Nowadays, I just can’t bothered anymore. Today it was really bad (no shape, no size…), I caught a few waves and made my way out pronto. Yesterday, I did not even wait for my last wave and just paddled back to shore. That would have never happened a few years ago.
Your own boyfriend makes the worst surf coach…I kind of knew it already but it was only confirmed when I gave surf lessons to a group of girls today who did not have the most exciting surfs with their boys and almost lost their faith in their gidgetness.
Now, you would think that your boyfriend would patiently stay with you in the whitewash, helps you catch waves and then eases you into bigger waves with all in mind but sharing his passion with his loved one. Sorry to break the news but I can tell you that they might try to (and really want to) stay with you in the whitewash but there is this magical force that draws them further out and they are torn between their girlfriend drowning in the whitewash and that right hander out the back. After short deliberation, they figure the best solution might be to drag their girlfriends out the back. (I wonder what they are thinking …it must be something along the lines: Really it’s not that big and she’s not falling off lying on the board, she’ll be alright…). Unless it’s really small, many gidgets experience a bad surf that way and get scarred for life and leave surfing to the boys. I still hate surfing close to rocks because my boyfriend in my beginner days thought it was a good idea for me to surf a point break in Ensenada…great wave…if you know how to surf across it. If you’ve just learned how to stand up on a wave and can only go straight, not so great…you’ll kiss the rock instead of your boy. Anyway, I’m glad to report that I did get the girls to have fun in the waves today.
In other news, completely unrelated to the above but also random… I’ll be competing in the Austrian surfing Nationals later this year (no joke). That’s what I love about surfing…never a dull moment even if the waves are not all time.
I think we’ll have some waves throughout the week. Fingers crossed also for the long weekend next weekend (super long for me 4 days off whoop whoop). Hope there will be some waves. A crew of us is heading up to Boomerang. Should be fun.
Have a great week everyone.