Ok, when I thought about writing this weekend’s wave wrap while I was sitting in a wet, smelly car, it was first meant to be titled something like ‘wet bum’ or ‘sharky as hell’ or ‘poor Swiss girl’ or ‘straya day weekend’ or ‘I’m glad we did not camp’ but that was before my last surf.
Let’s rewind… Friday evening a group of us were heading to Boomerang. I should have known then already that it’s going to be a great weekend. A cracking roadie soundtrack including Tina Turner, Tracy Chapman, Macy Gray, No Doubt, oh and last not but least Whitney Houston and our beautiful angelic voices singing along made the 3-hour car trip fly past in not time.
Saturday was ‘Straya Day’ and it was a very happy day indeed. We had three sessions in Boomerang. Each session better than the other. The swell was building throughout the day and by the end of the day, we had 4ft waves. Fun. The sunburn on the back of my legs was not so much fun.
Then the rain came. And the wind. We checked Boomerang in the morning and it was still kind of protected but it did look a bit messy so we decided to check out Treachery instead. We got really excited when we saw it first. It missed the big, messy sets, and was almost glassy. A 2ft shorey seemed to be working with most of the crew there and bigger sets quite far out the back. Strangely, no one was out the back. First, I wanted to paddle straight out the back but then I started thinking…’what if anyone gets attacked by shark here, should I use a leash or my rashie to make a tourniquet’ …everyone else was unusually quiet too and no one really was keen to come out the back. So we all stuck to the shorey which was surfable but rippy and really not that great. Especially, not that great compared to the beautiful, bigger sets rolling through out the back….It almost seemed like nature had set up this invisible border which we were not supposed to cross and no one did. No one of course, was talking about the shark fear while we are in the water. I bet no one did take a pee either. I did not …I was too scared to attract the sharks into the shorey. When we left, we were having a last glance at the oh so perfect sets out the back and we saw a dolphin playing out the back. A big black dolphin. All by itself…hmmm…
Monday morning, Boomerang was even bigger and messier than the day before and it was pissing down. The weather forecast did not look too promising either, so we decided to head back to Sydney just after brekkie. What a drive…I did not think it could be any more entertaining than on the way up. The car was smelly as because the water had leaked into the car through the soft racks and the seats were soaked (hot tip, take the soft racks off the roof if it’s meant to rain)…Not only was it a smelly car and wet car but the rain kept on dripping through the roof racks. Oh dear, it was so bad, that it was funny again.
We were back by about two. Bondi was looking good on the cam so we checked it when we got back. And believe me, after spending four hours in a leaky car with a wet bum on wet seats, I was not too keen to get into the water but it just looked too good. Unbelievable, you go away for a weekend…and your local turns it on. I dropped everything at home to surf Bondi. And it was sooooo much fun. The North corner was protected from the wind and the NE swell wrapped around nicely into the bay into a nice, loooooong left. It was busy but there were so many good waves. I had such a ball. After a few hours, I got tired and went home for a quick nap. When I checked after the nap again, it was even better. It was a bit bigger and the crowd had dropped by 6pm so I went for another one. And I had the best surf I had in Bondi in a long time. In fact the best surf in Bondi I can remember. Good old Bondi just turned it on. I had lefts from the North corner walling up all the way to the lifeguard tower. It was a decent size with well overhead waves. And it was clean and did I mention, it was holding up?? I even loved the rain. It always reminds me how lucky I am to be a surfer. While ‘normal’ people are locked inside grumpy about the bad weather, I had THE best time. It was so good.
So that’s why I had to rename this weekend wave wrap to ‘YEEEEEEOOOOOOWWWW’ to describe an epic session. Yes epic. A word that must not be overused when talking about surfing (it’s like crying wolf…if you use it too often, no one believes you). I can’t wait until tomorrow morning. I hope it’s going to be the same. Alarm clock shall be set for 5.30.
Have a great week (It should be good if you look at the surf forecast…everyday over 4ft…a rare sight during summer).
Your sincerely stoked and frothing gidget Clauds x
PS sorry Swiss girl, who was surfing all by herself. We really would have offered you to stay at our house if we would have known about the torrential rain. We all really felt very bad that no one offered and hope you did not get swept away in your little tent on the beach. I’m not sure if it makes it any better but you can be assured karma caught up with us already when we had to drive back in a smelly, leaking car…