The other day, whilst editing our book ‘Whitewash Warriors’ (yay very exciting, #whitewashwarriors coming soon!), I was looking for some genuine surf quotes. Our Facebook feeds are clogged up with more or less smart and/or inspiring quotes. Surely, there must be some nice surfing quotes out there I thought. But then I realised I don’t have to look that far, the most beautiful, inspiring quotes from the bottom of their gidget hearts were right in front of me. We’ve interviewed heaps of gidgets over the years and always asked them what they love about surfing. I was really touched by re-reading these quotes and seeing them all one one page so I thought, you might like it too and I would share this gidget love fest with you.
Enjoy x Claudia
These are some of the answers to the question “what do you love about surfing?”..
“There is something very humbling about being in the ocean. You learn that you are not in control, and that it’s okay.”
“Two things: One is the humbling experiences I have had in the surf have taught me more about myself and life than any school teacher could ever have. Two is the magical power to clear your head, let go of what bothers you and forgive who treated you unfairly. Any relationship counseling should start in the water ;-)”
“Gosh, so much to love. I love that surfing makes you totally present – whether it’s one foot ripple rides or something a bit scarier your focus is on the waves and you’re totally in the moment. I love that surfing is the best way to commune with nature, there’s something deeply peaceful about it. Hot pink sunrises. Golden dusks. Dolphins. I love that the same sorts of characters pop up in the surf wherever you are in the world, it’s a universal language which is kind of cool. I love that it keeps me fit, there is nothing as good as that total body tired feeling you get after surfing all day.”
“I love that it’s something that takes time and patience. Taj Burrow said this once “The only difference between you and I is time in the water and persistence” I’m a pretty impatient person so surfing really serves as a moving mediation for me.”
“The thrill of a take-off. The walk down to the beach at dawn with the sun rising in the East and the moon still up in the West. The winter days when the sand feels like snow and the ocean is steaming. Watching the changing colours of the water surface while waiting for a set. The sense of immense accomplishment even before the day has properly started.”
“It’s not about anyone else. It’s just you, the waves and an endless horizon (if you’re out the back far enough in Bondi). The moment you’re on the wave, everything evaporates into the flow.”
“EVERYTHING and particularly feeling the energy of the ocean. For me surfing is a way of life and it puts things into perspective and keeps you real. Sometimes you are lucky and sometimes not, it’s best to go with the flow and enjoy the ride as long as it lasts.”
“I love the ocean and surfing is simply the best way to get amongst it and connect with nature… Love the feeling of paddling out and forgetting everything else, so meditative, and great exercise too.”
“Experiencing the power and beauty of nature, being in the present and feeling in sync with the elements, having fun and sharing waves with good mates and simply the feeling of riding a wave.”
“I love being in the Ocean; the feeling of freedom and complete detachment from everything that is ‘on land’; I love the sea life; the fact that I feel so so happy after a session even if I didn’t get good waves; the way people react when you tell them you’re a surfer girl (makes me feel special somehow…); I love having a excellent reason for buying tons of swimsuits and bikinis; love being part of the surfing community – meeting new people, hang out by the beach and just share the passion; I love the physical and mental challenge that comes with it. If mermaids would exist, I’d be one for sure!!!”
“Dawns and light hitting the water and surprise wildlife and concurring mental and being able to let go and not be in control and going with what feels right and being a part of the ocean at whatever place you are.”
“Just being out in the ocean… I always think that sitting in a line-up’s like being part of an exclusive playground that only a privileged few get to play in. There’s something about paddling out at the crack of dawn and watching the sun rise over the water that makes me smile like nothing else. I’ve surfed on and off since I started and I’m still useless!! But like a friend once said to me… The best surfer in the water is the one with the biggest smile on their face, which makes me a pro!!”
“That I can paddle out and stop thinking about what ever is bothering me. At home (up the coast) I always know people in the water and they are always so happy to see me paddle out. Or help me out when I scratch my feet up jumping off the rocks!”